36. Going Back to the Middle Ages, Murat, France, 1967-68

I was nervous about what lay ahead of me and about the logistics of getting there, too. I was 20, travelling on my own, a scary prospect for me. However, I had made it to London, so it should be easy enough to get to France, surely? It was such a complicated journey to me, though, involving several different stages. I found myself to be a bundle of nerves, unable to sleep for the anxiety involved. I knew what I had to do, but as far as I was concerned, I was going to get lost, or be waylaid at every stage of the trip. I had to take the train to the London airport and fly to Paris. From there, I would take another train to the city and transfer (somehow!) to the railway station I needed, so that I could take the night train heading south to Clermont-Ferrand. Once there, I was required to transfer again, this time to a Pullman train heading to Murat. I had to make sure I was in the correct carriage, though, because of the three available, two went on elsewhere. For me, on my own, in a foreign country, I was beside myself with worry.

All went well for the first part of my trip. I flew to Paris and made my way to the railway station for trains heading south. I was there much too early, by several hours, but was too frightened to leave the area, in case I got lost and missed my train. So, I hung around, although this was not in my best interests, as it transpired. I had no idea that a single young lady standing still outside the railway station, could be perceived as a lure! I was accosted by several different men wanting to know my name, claiming that I had the most beautiful blue eyes, and asking where I was going. All this terrified me even more, but I couldn’t leave with the luggage I had, and I knew nothing about left luggage departments. So, I stayed put, wearing my nerves to a frazzle, not knowing what else I could do. I just waited for that 9pm evening train, desperate to feel safer than I did standing there on the street. I knew that this night train would arrive in Clermont-Ferrand at 6am the following day. From there, I would transfer to a Pullman train, going to the village of Murat, arriving before 7am. I had been told that two of the school’s female “surveillantes”, young women employed as supervisors within the school, would meet me at the railway station.

Despite my gut-wrenching anxiety, my travel arrangements went according to plan. However, when I boarded the night sleeper train in Paris, I discovered that the sleeping compartments or “couchettes” were for both men and women passengers, together. I found myself in a couchette with two men. I didn’t know what I could do, if anything, about this, but fortunately, a middle-aged lady joined us. Her presence made me feel less afraid.

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author
Susan is a retired high school teacher of French. She was born in England, but has lived in several countries, including Zimbabwe, France, England, and now, since 1987, in Ottawa, Canada. She is married to an aerospace engineer (retired). Susan has never written before, so this is a new venture on which she is embarking. She would like to write her memoir, to leave as a legacy for her children and grandchildren.
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